The New York Times published an interesting report on how the market conditions today had changed the way independent watchmakers are selling their watches. While MB&F plans to cut production numbers of each of its models while shortening interval between launches, other brands such as Maitre DuTemp is extending the interval between launches. The strategy employed by MB&F is a clever but risky bet with promise of more aggressive market position if it works. By raising the awareness of its new models on a shorter stretch of time, collector's attention will be diverted away from other brands. Maitre DuTemp in contrast is the time tested conservative approach to slow down in the market by slowing down of its production of new pieces.
But the one key aspect of whether either strategy to succeed will very much depend on how retailers will respond to such strategies. As the report reflected, retailers are now reeling from the tight market conditions and they are now practising very conservative retailing.
I hope the independent brands will be able to survive and return to the market with greater strength and wisdom of lessons learnt.
Check out the New York Times article here.

 


The highly respected Financial Times of London publishes an annual watch supplement and this year it features a few interesting articles - including a balanced commentary on the ongoing feud over the supply of ETA movements to Swiss watch companies.

Another article that is well worth reading is a report on how brands are now embracing nanotechnology processes to create extremely small and thin watch components. Sometime back I blogged about the potential damage to traditional watchmaking with this new technologies if the brands were not careful in how they replace their current manufacturing processes - in the name of higher automation and lowering of cost of production. So far the brands appear to have learnt the lessons of the quartz movement impact on the industry and had not gone into full replacement of complete movements with the new nano materials - yet. I am certain though, there is great temptation to create new parts and even new movement in the name of advancement of horology.

Now if only the watch brands can understand that ultimately technology is the leveler - not the guarantee of competitive edge. Its the skills of the watchmaker and his artistry that is the rare commodity that the smart money will buy.

To read these and other reports in the FT Watch Supplement, CLICK HERE to download the 35mb pdf file.

 


The ReedsCo Homage (left) and Axis (right)

A good friend and fellow collector, Mr Eddie Sng introduced me to a young entrepreneur Mr Reed Tan, a fresh graduate full of drive and energy and a yen for design started a business selling watches with his vision early this year. His own creation called "Axis" designed with his own ideas, working with outsourced suppliers - has yet to take off but its early days yet. He feels that his design is still going through an evolutionary process. The Axis is not without flaws yet commendable for a first effort to bring about a mechanical watch, made with equal if not better quality than many fashion watches. He sells his watches through his website with a header - REEDSCo A Singaporean Dream.

To finance his fledgling business and the development of a new model, Reed retails a homage watch that features a 47mm case shape that most will easily recognise. The interesting difference is that unlike other homage retailers found on the Internet, Reed offers this watch with a very personal touch. Hand finished sandwich dials with his own process that creates different pattern, colours and patinas. All at comparatively affordable prices compared with those being offered on Internet and forums.
Will REEDSCo able to succeed in this fickle yet demanding market? Some may say his timing could not be worse with the downturn of the global markets but I am hopeful that this young entrepreneur will find success. After all, the face of ever escalating cost of luxury Swiss mechanical watches, where would the ordinary man in the street able to find value for money timepieces? Reed may have stumbled upon a successful model at the right time if he is able to marry quality with affordable prices - and individually finished dials. Maybe, it will not be just a dream after all.
Check out REEDSCo at THIS LINK.



 


Watch collectors with years of experience know and bemoan about this issue but new collectors have to suffer a severe shock to learn about the real cost of ownership of luxury watches. Even more so if the watch in question features any of the renowned complications such as chronograph, tourbillon and perpetual calendars.
Mr Chuang Peck Ming of the Business Times reported yesterday in the Weekend Edition in "Get your watch serviced - and fall off the chair" reported that it cost him S$4100 to service his Lange 1. His research showed that its not uncommon for top brands to charge at this level for servicing and repairs.
Unfortunately - this is the hidden cost of owning a desirable luxury Swiss watch. While many may feel in time that they will readily spend 5-10k for a good Swiss watch, most will not readily nor happily part with thousands for servicing or repairs - especially when they are not mentally prepared for it.
The cost of servicing and repairs goes up exponentially with complications and watches with very high level of finishing. Lange for instance will upon servicing or repair will refinish the watch again to almost brand new condition. That is the promise made by Lange and I have seen it delivered. Not all brands are able to provide that level of service but many will of course charge a lot less.
Nevertheless, new collectors must realise this early and make the necessary enquiries so as to make a proper and considered choice when buying a watch.
Yet another reason why watches must not be purchased with impetuous decisions. So if you are not financially ready for the cost of repairs or servicing, you are not financially ready for the watch - even if you can pay the price on the tag.

 



The third and final unique piece featured is a second piece from Kari. The salmon dial Observertoire. A model that is no longer available as Kari has filled his order books for this design. A watch that is rated very highly by classic watch collectors who wanted rare and handmade pieces finished to a level that is beyond the mainstream brands. This model is indeed handsome and the salmon dial makes for quite a stunning watch. Click on the images to view the high resolution versions.

 


Kari Voutilainen brought two unique pieces for the Independence Tour this year. This Chronometre 27 in cream dial features very intricate engraving in the middle of the dial as well as throughout the movement. Capturing all the wonderful detail of the engraving is almost impossible. A long watch which does not attractive to some but for those able to wear it, it is an imposing time piece as Kari is able to show in the portrait above. Click on the images to see the high resolution photos.


 


The Hour Glass Tour of of Independence 2009 kicked off with a dinner party for selected fans and collectors. This year's tour featured Mr Romain Gauthier and Mr Kari Voutilainen who each brought not only their latest models for show but Special Unique pieces to commemorate the Tour.
Romain's single unique piece shown below featured a semi-open dial of his watch that showed the time dial as floating above the movement itself. Click on the image to view the watch in high resolution.

 



It was about time that classic and simple watches return to importance in the world of serious horology. The GPdH Asia - unlike its Geneve cousin - has a panel of Asian judges who are renown collectors without any connection to any brands nor to Edipresse - the media organisation that runs this competition every year. The GPdH Asia held its annual gala event on the 25th Sept to coincide with the Formula 1 Grand Prix in Singapore.
Unlike the other winners from the sub categories this year, the watch of the year went to this simple looking watch from A Lange & Sohne - the Richard Lange Pour Le Merite (RLPM).
This simple three handed watch (unlike the standard Richard Lange which has centre seconds) features a hidden complication only Lange & Breguet is able to manufacture - the chain & fusee. Unlike the Breguet Chain & Fusee which is perceptibly larger, the Lange's design is more akin to a very fine bicycle chain. Look carefully at the movement capture to appreciate how fine the work is on the chain. While the Richard Lange dial design does not call to me, horologically speaking, the RLPLM is one of the most discreet looking of all high horology. It reminds me of the more gentlemanly days when understatement is the call of the day and real men wore their wealth discreetly like a tourbillon on the back rather than the front.

Click on the images to view the high resolution versions.

- HT

 


As promised, here is the beautifully guilloched Lange 1 Japan LE wallpaper. Click on the image above to download a copy.


PLEASE NOTE: your act of downloading indicates your agreement to respect and uphold my copyright not to use it in any other manner other than for personal use as a desktop wallpaper. No commercial use; amendments; alterations and editing work is permitted.

 


On the 16th of September IWC celebrated the opening of its newest boutique in Singapore with a ribbon cutting ceremony at the ION Singapore and a grand gala dinner at the Esplanade.
The evening's proceedings were kept a secret and guests were given several pleasant surprises including dining on the beautiful stage of the Esplanade Concert Hall - and having Ronan Keating sing to the guests.
For a detailed report by Jaw of Horomundi (with a contribution of photographs by me) Click Here to read the report of the event.
- HT

 


The Lange 1 has been in the Lange & Sohne stable since the launch of the brand. It has succeeded as a model to bring the German brand to the upper echelons of high horology in terms of innovation in design and finish. One of the early pieces that was highly sought after was the Lange 1A - a yellow gold limited edition that had a yellow gold dial intricately guilloched as with this Japan LE.
The Japan LE version however features a beautiful blue moonphase that brings a nice contrast to the fine guilloche work. A beautiful and rare watch for fans of the brand. Click on the image above to view the other images I posted in a report on Timezone Lange Forum. I am sure you will not be disappointed with the details of the watch.
Come back soon to see and download the wallpaper of this watch.
-HT

 


Peter Speake-Marin was recently robbed in California of all his belonging during his world tour of Beijing, Hong Kong, Bangkok, Singapore (see post below on his visit), Sydney, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Denver and Miami where he was expected to meet retailers and fans of his watches.
He had with him several of his prized pieces including one that was meant for his personal collection.
To read more about the crime, CLICK HERE to read the announcement on Horomundi forum.

 



The new 2009 Zeitwerk from Lange is a completely new caliber and direction from the German marque. By pushing its already revered mechanical movement prowess, Lange designed a watch with large digital window display to tell the time. Each digit moves instantaneously on cue - with renowned German precision. The watch will be one of the catalogue models available in different colour dials and metals. Even before stocks are in, the order books are being filled. Click on the image above to download the wallpaper.

NOTE: your act of downloading indicates your agreement to respect and uphold my copyright not to use it in any other manner other than for personal use as a desktop wallpaper. No commercial use; amendments; alterations and editing work is permitted.

 



As mentioned earlier in my first Tourbograph post, I was invited by my friend Peter Chong, the Lange Moderator at Timezone to dine with other collectors and to photograph the evening's proceedings.
Peter has finally collated my images and filed a report on Timezone Lange Forum. To read and view the images for that report, click on the photo of Fabian Krone (CEO Lange).
The Singapore Peer Dinner was the kick off for a series of Peer Dinners around the world to showcase and introduce the Lange Zeitwerk and Richard Lange Pour le Merite (also available on hand were the Tourbograph and Cabaret Tourbillon - all to be featured here over the weeks ahead).
The Peer Dinners is a novel concept by any brand where apart from the host, no retailers, or commercial or industry watch people are involved. Lange elects to work with a friend of the brand, to host dinner. Arrangements like the guest list, logistics, venue, menu, wine list are left to the total discretion of the host.
The next Peer Dinner will be hosted in Hong Kong sometime in October.
- HT

 


Lange's chronograph movements are especially beautiful mechines. The Tourbograph is a fine example of Lange's continued excellence in developing beautiful, complex and very finely finished movement. One have to view the details of every screw and lever in minute detail to see how much painstaking effort has been taken to produce a high quality watch. Click on the image above to view the Zoomify image of the movement. Click and Drag to navigate around the image.

For those not on broadband, please be patient for the full image to download.

- HT

 



Since the start of the decade, the tourbillon has become a necessary feature for watch houses to claim to be part of high horology. As a result, tourbillons are now are not as rare as was in the past. Unfortunately many of the tourbillons are not made in house but outsourced and very often they are added onto current designs as a module. Historically, the design, manufacture and assembling of a tourbillon was a painstaking process but with computer aided design and new materials with new tools available today, much of the complexity and design risk has been removed.
This is not to say that there is still a huge amount of work involved in crafting a top quality tourbillon finished to the Nth degree that Lange is famous for. Lange & Sohne has been revered by collectors as a watch house that does not compromise on quality and finishing.
Have a look at the high resolution close up of the Tourbograph's tourbillon cage here and see if it deserves the right to the claim as one of the most desired modern tourbillons today. Click on the image above to see the high resolution version.

- HT

 



Last week Fabian Krone (CEO of Lange & Sohne), together with Mr Peter Chong (Moderator of Lange Forum on Timezone) hosted a small intimate but gastronomically wonderful dinner at Iggy's Restaurant in Singapore. More of the event and food later (event report by Peter with the aid of my images). The highlight of the evening, as always at watch events are the watches itself and Lange's rare pieces are a delight to collectors to hold and inspect - if not to be acquired.
The exciting newly released Zeitwerk was shown in different metal guises. It is a new direction for the very conservative Lange & Sohne brand and the gamble, by measure of the responses from collectors at the dinner appears to paid off. But more about the Zeitwerk and photographs will be shown here later.
For now, I would like to share my desktop wallpaper of the very imposing and expensive Tourbograph (listed at over S$500,000). I hope fans of this watch will enjoy this wallpaper. Click on the image above to download a copy.
As always, your act of downloading indicates your agreement to respect and uphold my copyright not to use it in any other manner other than for personal use as a desktop wallpaper. No commercial use; amendments; alterations and editing work is permitted.

 


Early this week, Peter Speake-Marin was in town in a whirlwind multi-city tour to meet up with collectors and retailers (probably delivering some bespoke pieces too). He met up with five collectors for coffee and I was on hand with my trusty camera to capture Peter who as always, a right gentleman telling us wonderful stories and news happening in Switzerland and in the watch world.
Click on the images below to see the images in high resolution.







 



To describe the DBS as an impressive car seems quite redundant. Even at a standstill, it reeks of refined engineering. Clearly designed to move the spirit by moving the body through high speed on tarmac. Its beautiful curved lines and racing engine sounds, it is clearly a car to turn heads as well as spirits.

The series of images of the car was put together as a video earlier in my event report but just in case visitors missed it earlier, here is the video for your viewing pleasure. The ominous sound track is called "End of an Aston Martin" from the Casino Royale.





- HT

 


The Amvox sitting on top of the DBS engine - while it was running.

The JLC Amvox finally arrived on our shores. Earlier in the year, I reported about the need for such a watch but it appears that my doubt is unfounded because demand from Aston Martin owners have surpassed expectations. The DBS itself is somewhat controvesial being an identical car to the DB9 with an additional substantial tag. Nonetheless, there is still a following for the model and owners are excited at having a James Bond type watch.
I was invited to photograph this watch and car at the event which I readily agreed - excited at the prospect of photographing the DBS and Amvox together. Mr Janek Deleskiewicz the Artistic Director of JLC was at hand to model both the car and watch.
Check out the report I filed at the Horomundi.com forum - CLICK HERE to read it. Look out for the video of images I took of the Aston Martin as well in the report at the forum.
- HT

 


"Distract the wife, avoid talk of price... sell the romance, the emotion"
The Wall Street Journal just published a revealing article on how a consultant was hired to train IWC salesmen to sell their watches to walk in customers at their boutiques. It was reported that sales fell by 42% in the US in May compared to same month the year before. This caused some brands to relook at how they are selling their watches and in the case of IWC, retraining their staff was one of the strategies.
The method that the consultant uses is to get the sales staff to distract the wife, avoid the talk of price and speak of value instead. Instead of discounts, monogrammed gifts such as mugs and umbrellas are given instead. At the same time, sales staff are to raise their performance levels because there is " the need for better, more thoughtful service that makes the customer sense caring and quality —the stuff of luxury."
Such techniques of sales staff are not new, especially to the regulars and to seasoned collectors and observers of the industry. In recent years watch marketing agencies and brands had been selling luxury lifestyle rather than true horological achievements. It seems rather insincere that the need for better luxury service is heightened during recessionary times. Collectors have long memories and many had to suffer the poor service of brands whose watches are selling faster than supply - during the good times.
Serious collectors who had been collecting watches for some years would have learnt quickly to ignore all the advertising and marketing efforts by the brands - and approach the buying of a watch without all the hubris. Even before they step into a watch retailer, some basic research would have been done. In fact, the strategy of collectors is the direct opposite to the consultant's purpose. Be clinical, buy without being emotional and understand what the prices are and whether they are reflective of the street prices and discounts available.
Unfortunately, its the first time buyer that would be ensnared by the clever web that the salesmen weave. With the Internet so freely available for basic research online, it would be either a fool who walks in to a boutique and makes an impulse purchase without first making any research - or one that is so well endowed with wealth that it does not matter that one is paying high street prices without any effort to understand what is being purchased.
CLICK HERE to read the Wallstreet Journal article

 


For visitors and fans of WH that are members on Facebook, I have created a new page there for fans to obtain latest information on posts and updates as they are published here. At the FB page, there are opportunities for fans to post comments or even engage in discussions. So if you do have a FB account and would like to sign up for this, click on the link below:


- HT

 


Alan Teo & Michael Tay at L'Atelier


The Ion at Orchard Road was one of the most expensive commercial estate deals when it was bought by the developers who had planned something special for that plot of prized land. Planned as the mall for ultimate luxury, it was inevitable that top luxury Swiss watch houses would set up boutiques there. Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega, Cartier, Tag Hauer and IWC have showrooms there - in expectation of business from the large community of watch collectors in Singapore and the region. Hour Glass and Cortina has well placed shops as well but the L'Atelier deserves special mention.
The word "L'Atelier" is a term of art used by the watch industry to represent the place or room where the artisan or watchmaker works. There you find all his necessary tools to repair, make or assemble parts of the watch he or she is working on. Mr Michael Tay (Executive Director of HG) planned for such a concept for his new jewel in the Hour Glass crown.
A retail outlet with a sense of being a watchmaker's place where his magic is woven. When one steps into the L'Atelier, the opulence of fine leather chesterfield seating in the centre of the boutique brings a sense of a well appointed living room of a gentleman's home. Surrounded by both watch books, art and curios connected with horology, the boutique is almost a museum of horological curiosities.
There are two antique workbenches, one on the left of the entrance and the other stands on its own as a separating feature between two rooms with all kinds of watch making equipment as well as beautiful watch movements under glass bells.
The boutique features an inner sanctum where curtains could be drawn for clients who demand a higher level of discretion. In this room along the walls, the lower half features - as a design element - the watch cases from Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta.
All round the walls of the boutique are found the displays of the high end luxury brands. Including Lange & Sohne, the dealership which was extended to Hour Glass just recently. Watches are also displayed in cabinets but their dimension and designs reflect a more tasteful manner of display to create a highly exclusive yet a warm atmosphere of sophistication and comfort for the regular and potential customers. No detail was overlooked and that included new uniforms for staff that are replicas of watch maker's coats.
This new boutique raises the bar even higher in an already competitive market in Singapore. However, its an exciting development for watch collectors to be able to see retailers bringing the art form in horology one step closer to the public and for us to see the rare equipment once used in watch making.
For a photomontage of the L'Atelier, click on the image above.

- HT

 


Admittedly, I have had difficulty in liking the Daniel Roth watches due to its unfamiliar case shape. While it sings for some, it some how does not excite me. However, this is not to be confused with my respect for the quality of their handicraft in creating beautiful watch movements. For instance, I felt the limited edition Athys with the IWC caliber 95 was quite a handsome watch with its beautifully engraved movement.

This here is the Hour Glass Limited Edition Athys with a different dial with a moon and stars. This moon is quite unique in that it feature some details of craters and surface features of the moon. A date function is also now seen on the dial near the 4 marker. One has to look at the movement of the watch to appreciate how well DR has managed to create a very thin winding movement - while not ornately finished, it shows off a great degree of horological capability.



- HT
(It is with thanks to The Hour Glass that I got their permission to photograph the watch at the premises of the Millennia branch)

 



On Thursday 17th June, Vacheron hosted a small dinner at the Mimolette Restaurant launching its 2009 collection here in Singapore. It was a grand evening of great food, great company and very entertaining jazz trio and singer - Ms Joanna Dong.

The food was in great but the true highlight was the new 2009 collection and the long awaited 1921 model with a new calibre that brought the nostalgia back to Vacheron (listed at over SGD39K). A driver's watch with the dial being angled to the right with the 12 at where 2 is normally found. The crown is also relcated at the top right lug away from the usual 3 position. A few wrist shots were captured together with the other offerings that evening.

Click on the images to view the montage of the evening's proceedings.


- HT

 



This year is the 30th Anniversary of the Hour Glass and to commemorate it, several brands including Gerald Genta are releasing some limited editions with rare combinations.

In this case, 30 pieces of the Gefica Bronze with a Grey and Black dial combination. I shot this watch together with a few other limited editions (soon to follow here) and decided that its best appreciated by seeing it in high resolution as a wallpaper. I find the Gefica an intriguing watch. Clearly Genta is well known for its jumping hour watches but its the Bronze cases that catches the eye. In these captures, I decided to try to capture raw character of the metal through low key lighting that shows off some of the graininess of the metal.

Please download the image only if you agree to my terms of use. Click on either of the images here to download the two versions.

 



The Hour Glass launched the Sinn Club South East Asia for fans from the region. Intended to be a means for fans of the brand to receive news, updates, information of latest developments as well as be on the mailing list for all Sinn activities in the region.

Retailers creating and supporting brand fanbase is not a new development in the region. Earlier last year, Bell & Ross launced its Singapore/Malaysia B&R Club. The creation of brand blogsites where collectors are able to obtain exclusive information and news will bring about a minor revolution in the landscape of watch collecting in the region. Historically, collectors have three sources of information - brand sites; forums and what ever internet searches throw up. Now with official blogsites managed by retailers designed primarily to meet the demands of collectors - the attention given to the other sources may wane - depending on how effective these brand blogs are performing.

For Sinn fans from South East Asia who are interested to see the site, simply click on the image above to view the page.

- HT

 


Here is the second and final wallpaper from the 2009 IWC watch collection that piqued my interest. As I have been a Portuguese fan for its history, its beautiful movement and austere design, it was natural that I would gravitate to this piece. Since the launch of the Vintage series, it was hoped by many that IWC would release a white dial model of this new series and they finally did in 2009. This watch is huge with minimal bezel and with a diameter of 46mm - feels very substantial even on the largest of wrists. IWC collectors will have to make a difficult choice to choose between the Vintage Portofino and the Portuguese. If there was one thing I would change was to revert to the old script on the dial that showed "International Watch Co." That would make the watch a true and accurate tribute to the original.
Click on the image above to download the wallpaper.
As always, your act of downloading indicates your agreement to respect and uphold my copyright not to use it in any other manner other than for personal use as a desktop wallpaper. No commercial use; amendments; alterations and editing work is permitted.
- HT

 



IWC was very kind to allow me to photograph the working models of their watches at their Singapore Richemont offices. From the vast array of their offering this year I feel two of their watches deserve special mention. The first is the Vintage Portofino RG which was discussed earlier. So here is the desktop wallpaper for fans of this very large but genteel and refined piece for pocket watch movement fans. Click on the image above to download the wallpaper.
As always, your act of downloading indicates your agreement to respect and uphold my copyright not to use it in any other manner other than for personal use as a desktop wallpaper. No commercial use; amendments; alterations and editing work is permitted.
-HT

 


Some weeks ago, I published a couple of images of the Trio in white gold. Here is a rose gold version that was recently received by the Hour Glass Millennia for one of its customers. I photographed this watch together with a few others one weekend but it was only in the processing of the images did I really notice how refined the movement had become. I found this version to be as handsome as the WG version but as I always differ to understatement, I would feel more comfortable with the WG version on the wrist. Nevertheless, click on each of the images here to see how each watch looks like in high resolution.



- HT

 





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